Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is one of the best known houseplants out there. Tolerant to low light, infrequent watering, and outright neglect, it is best known for its shiny leaves, long, draping foliage, and its ability to purify air where it is kept.

Depending on conditions, Pothos will grow shoots that are as long as 6-10' long, dangling from the outside of its pot, In the tropical climates where it is native, these can be as long as 40'. This makes it ideal in a hanging basket. Pothos can survive with minimal sunlight, but cannot do entirely without, so plan to place it in a room with a window. It will also do fine under the bright fluorescent tubes most offices have, so if you want to take it to work with you, don't worry about windows.

Care for this is very simple. Let the dirt dry out before watering again. Too much water can cause root rot and wash out nutrients in the soil. Too much watering will cause drooping and possibly black spots on the leaves. The best way to tell if it needs water is to use a finger and dip it into the soil. If you get wet dirt on your finger, wait a couple more days.

They prefer slightly acidic soil, but as long as your soil drains well, it should be fine. The plant can either be allowed to grow long vines to drape down around it, or pruned up to give it a bushier shape. As with any plant, confine your trimming to less than 1/3rd of the volume of the plant.

When the leaves start to regularly droop, even upon watering, it is a good sign that it's time to transplant into a larger container. If you're cursing your black thumb, or just hoping for some low-maintenance greenery in your home, give Pothos a try.

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Prized by gardeners for their beauty in the landscape and by flower collectors who proudly display their colorful blooms in elaborate crystal bowls, Camellia japonicas are enjoying renewed popularity across the world. Their classic-shaped flowers herald the spring, and each year new hybrid varieties are introduced to delight collectors everywhere.

Camellias were first introduced from Asia to the West in the early 18th century by a Jesuit priest named George Karl Kamel, from whose name camellia is derived. Since then, plant hunters have been searching for camellia species growing wild in China, Japan and throughout the Pacific Rim. Growers then take these new plants and use them to create new hybrids for the home landscape.

Because camellias are evergreen, they not only make for great focal points in the garden but also can decorate a deck or patio in containers. They are so versatile they can even be trained on a trellis as an alternative to a shade-tolerant vine. The classic flowers range in shape from loosely-petaled double blooms to peony-shaped and more layered formal blooms. The 3-5" blooms are found in colors including white, shades of coral, pink and red, along with many variegated colors. Some varieties are also fragrant.

Camellias require little fertilizer. We recommend waiting until the plants have finished blooming before giving them their first feeding of the year. After flowering, wait for new growth to appear at the ends of branches and then feed every two months with cottonseed meal or an organic acid food through the end of September.

It's the perfect time to see our camellias in all of their blooming glory. We promise you will enjoy their spectacular flowers. But be warned, growing camellias and enjoying their flowers can be addictive!

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Over the past twenty years, commercial growers have produced tomato varieties that valued shelf-life and unblemished prettiness over taste - and the result has been an almost tasteless tomato at your local supermarket (the baskets might taste as good). Put taste back on top with heirloom varieties - some can even flourish on your patio in a 7-gallon-sized container!

Heirlooms vary in their production time, so you can sequence your varieties over the summer. A vine-ripened tomato salad can be yours for the picking! These tomatoes may not look as pretty as the ones in the local supermarket - but the taste more than makes up for it.

Planting and growing directions:

The one disadvantage to heirloom varieties is that they tend to be less disease-resistant than the hybrids. If you've grown a few extra, and they all stay healthy, your non-gardening neighbors will probably be happy to take some of your great-tasting tomatoes off your hands.

Once you get your plants, if they are greenhouse-grown, harden them off for a week or so before transplanting (leave them outside for just a couple of hours the first day, then gradually increase the length of time, watering as needed). Before you transplant, amend your soil with a good planting mix, such as , or use a potting soil such as for tomatoes in pots. Plant them in the evening or on a cloudy day, and they will be less likely to droop. To make for a stronger plant, bury tomato stems up to the plant's second true set of leaves (they'll develop roots all along the buried stem).

Stake or cage as needed (depending on the variety), water as necessary, and fertilize with and you'll have a tomato crop that can't be beat!

A note to those growing tomatoes in pots on a narrow patio: you can espalier tomatoes! They won't produce as well but if it's the only way you'll have the room to grow them at all, try it - half a crop is better than being stuck with the tasteless 'tomatoes' sold in the supermarkets.

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How often should I feed my lawn?

Answer:
We recommend feeding lawns every two months during the growing season. You can start off by applying a lawn food in late winter to early spring that contains a pre-emergent herbicide to help prevent crabgrass and other weeds from germinating.

After that, switch to a complete lawn food. If summer weeds become a problem, apply a weed and feed fertilizer.

Make sure to give your lawn a final feeding in fall, before it goes dormant, to keep it green through winter. If a lawn goes into the winter looking yellow, you won't be able to green it up much until temperatures warm up again.

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