Well, actually it's both. Cilantro refers to the leaves of the plant, and coriander references the seeds. Also known as Chinese parsley, this herb is indeed a member of the parsley family. This gentle little herb with lacy, fern-like leaves is a social creature, requiring other plants growing around it to aid in holding it up on its spindly stems that can reach 2+ feet in height. Excellent companion plants are caraway, anise and dill.

An annual, it is best first planted in cool weather, in a moderately rich, slightly alkaline, well-drained soil; this native of Asia and the Mediterranean regions prefers full to partial sun. In ideal conditions, cilantro (leaves) will last about 8 to 10 weeks before flowering. To ensure such conditions (this herb is not a friend of weeds), mulch to keep the roots cool and weed-free.

Once the herb flowers, producing a delicate white-to-lavender display, seeds will form; harvest them immediately when the leaves and flowers turn brown, but before the seeds disperse. To do this, cut the entire plant and hang it to dry upside down in paper bags. Occasionally shake the bags to thresh the seeds, but be certain that they have fully dried; coriander seeds can be bitter if only partially dry.

Once you have harvested the dried seeds, roast them in a frying pan over low to medium heat, frequently shaking the pan. Cool, then crush with a mortar and pestle just before use; this will release the flavor--and the trademark lemon-scented odor. The wise herb gardener will retain some of the seeds prior to drying for replanting every few weeks to guarantee a continuous supply.

When picking fresh cilantro, choose the small, young leaves (which are the tastiest) and cut with the stems on. Rinse well, and place the bunch, stem ends down, in a small glass of water as if you were displaying flowers. Cover with a plastic bag, securing with a rubber band, and refrigerate. Change the water daily, and your cilantro will last much longer.

The citrusy tang of cilantro has become a popular addition to Mexican cuisine, while Chinese, Thai, and Indonesian cuisines use both cilantro and coriander. Thai curries incorporate the chopped leaves of cilantro, while Indian curry powders owe their aromatic quality to ground coriander.

Coriander has been found in Egyptian tombs dating back 3,000 years. The ancient Hebrews used cilantro root as the maror, or bitter herb, during the symbolic Passover Seder meal. The Roman conquests of Europe and Asia introduced the use of cilantro as an aphrodisiac in China during the Han dynasty (207 BC – 200 AD); such usage is mentioned in The Tales of the Arabian Nights. But most notably, the visions of sugar-plums which danced in children's heads on the night before Christmas, originally referred to sugar-coated coriander.

The seeds, when chewed, freshen one's breath; the essential oil is considered an aid in improving memory; and because of cilantro's powerful scent, it has a reputation for attracting beneficial insects and deterring harmful ones.

Whether you call it cilantro or coriander, the distinctive characteristics of this tiny miracle herb make it a must-have for any herb garden.

With at-home vacations here to stay, enjoying a family barbecue around a water feature is a marvelous way to save money, strengthen family bonds, and find peace and tranquility with the soothing elements of a pond in your own backyard.

Ponds can be of any size; a swimming pond is only 20% of the cost of a swimming pool! But what we are seeing more and more of is a smaller, more manageable version--sometimes no larger than 3 to 4 feet in diameter--catering to birds, butterflies, frogs, fish--and your family, of course! And any sort of water feature adds not only to your inner felicity, but increases the value of your home. In return, there is maintenance to be done, the scope of which varies with the size and complexity of your pond.

Today we’re dealing with the re-awakening season of the year, spring, and the resultant maintenance needed for the re-opening of your pond. But a refresher course in fall/winter maintenance is prudent to review.

Even in more temperate zones, you should have removed any decorative features such as waterfalls or misters, which might suffer damage from freezing nights.
You should also have:
• cleaned out any leaves or debris;
• cut back plants;
• added mulch to border plants;
• and transferred the more frail plants indoors.

If you have decided to incorporate fish in your outdoor pond this year, be sure to carefully and extensively research which fish cohabit harmoniously. Adding fish means adding greatly to the maintenance that must be done on your pond, and to the amount of knowledge that must be obtained so that you do not suffer a high mortality rate. Also research your fishes' needs, and transfer applicable fish inside during winter if they cannot tolerate the colder season. Or, by adding a floating pond heater, you can ensure that the water temperatures never get lower than 55 degrees Fahrenheit.

A yearly spring cleanout will ensure a clean pond, healthy plants and happy fish. You may remove as little as 20% of the water if you were diligent in preparing your pond for winter, or up to 50% if the accumulation of dead leaves and debris is significant.

If you chose to not add fish, or decided to winter your fish indoors, why not completely empty the pond and give it a thorough cleaning? However much water you remove, the next step is to do the following:
• First, disconnect the plumbing, and then drain the pond, using this water as an excellent fertilizer for your garden plants.
• Remove all debris, and climb into your pond to wash off the muck. This is a great way to bond with, and repay, your water feature for all that it’s given you!
• Rinse numerous times until it is clean.
• Check the liner for any tears.
• Clean all of the filters and replace filter pads.
• Refill the pond, dechlorinate, and if you now wish to transfer your indoor guests to their outdoor home, gradually reintroduce the fish, ensuring an even acclimatization; it is essential that the new water is the same temperature, pH, and alkalinity.

And--this is the most important part of the pond re-opening process---pull up a chair, pick up a book, and sit back and relax to the soothing sounds of your own personal paradise.

Can I grow basil and other herbs from cuttings?

Answer:

You can take cuttings any time that the mother plants are still actively growing and healthy. Always use a shallow (less than 3 inches deep) container that is new or has been sterilized with 1 part bleach to nine parts water.

We recommend indoor greenhouse trays that come with clear plastic covers.

Use a mixture of peat moss and sand or a seed starting mix like Gardner & Bloome Seed Starting Mix. Wet your mixture completely with lukewarm water. Always keep your soil moist, not soggy, so the new plant roots have oxygen. Select new stems and prune no more than 3 inches. Strip the leaves off the bottom half of the cutting with your fingers. Make a final angled cut (at a former leaf node) so more of the stem will be exposed to root.

Use a pencil to make holes in the soil. Dip the cut end of your cutting into rooting hormone and place in the hole, firming the mix around your cutting. (There should be no leaves touching the mix.) Mist your cutting a few times daily to keep it moist and cover with plastic or a mini greenhouse cover to keep it humid.

Place your pots or trays in a warm location where soil temperatures can be maintained between 65 and 75 degrees. You can use a heating mat if needed, but check your soil moisture more often if one is used. When new growth resists when you gently tug on the plant, then it is ready for potting.