It's June, the weather is fabulous: flowers are bursting from buds, fragrances float gently through the breeze. Hmm, that could be shortened to "Sun, buds bursting, breezes floating fragrances...birds sing!"

Planting
Continue to tuck in or fill out your garden beds with all the wonderful annual and perennial color that is arriving at the garden center. Celosia, dahlia, marigold, petunia, portulaca, salvia, scabiosa, verbena, zinnia, heliotrope, coreopsis, delphinium, digitalis--the list goes on and on! Can you name a few more?

Subtropicals abound. Now is an excellent time to plant hibiscus, gardenia, tibouchina (princess flower), and/or bougainvillea, shrub or vine.

Vegetables--have you been growing yours from seeds? Now is a good time to plant these little plants: cucumbers, eggplant, peppers, tomatoes. You can begin these vegetables from seeds now: summer and winter squashes, pumpkins (for parents with kids that love Halloween pumpkin carving and decorating), and corn (remember to plant at least a couple of rows of corn).

For that kitchen garden, now is a good time to plant your culinary herbs such as basil, chives, lemongrass, marjoram, oregano, parsley, sage and tarragon. Rosemary should be a permanent member of your garden!

Maintenance
Now is a good time to fertilize your flowers, roses, vegetables and warm season lawns. We suggest Dr. Earth Organic 3 Rose & Flower Fertilizer for your flowers and Dr. Earth Organic 5 Tomato , Vegetable and Herb Fertilizer for your vegetables.

For those growing native plants or other drought tolerant types, now is NOT the time to fertilize or to plant new natives. Your natives are preparing to go dormant for the summer.

Many have asked us what is causing yellowing in the leaves of their citrus, camellias, and gardenias. Iron deficiency. Do the leaves near the top of the plant have green veins but yellow in between the veins? Time for either a foliar spray or a soil drench. Try some Master Nursery Iron Plus to return those leaves to green!

Rose lovers, you may be starting to experience powdery mildew, rust, and of course, the "beloved" rose slug. And oh, did I mention aphids? There is a multitude of products: earth-friendly types and others that are synthetic chemicals. Please ask one of us for suggestions on the best pest-fighting product for your rose garden.

Other Basics--step up your watering as we enter into these warmer months. Weed and then, what's the final three set of words?

Mulch, Mulch, Mulch.*
* We will always tell you to mulch. This does not mean mound up the mulch to 5 feet. It means continue to replenish the mulch and maintain a 2-4 inch blanket over your soil. So when you hear us singing the MULCH song, you know just what we mean!

When planting a new garden, perennial or otherwise, get ready to get your hands dirty! Yes, you will need to prepare the soil. Before putting all your new plants into the ground, this is your best opportunity to loosen the soil, break up the clumps (especially if you have clay soil), and remove rocks. Next, add organic matter by mixing a good amendment such as Master Nursery Bumper Crop together with your native soil. This is the perfect time, prior to planting, to add in an organic starter fertilizer like Dr. Earth Organic 2 Starter Fertilizer. Be sure to work rock phosphate or some other source of phosphorus down into the root zone. Phosphorus, an essential nutrient required by plants, is primarily responsible for healthy root development and fruit and flower production. This nutrient does not move well in the soil, so now is the time to put it where it is needed.

Few gardeners pay attention to the pH level in their perennial garden. Though most perennials prefer a pH of about 6.5, some, including dianthus, salvia, linum, and gypsophila, have a distinct preference for more alkaline soils. Others prefer a more acidic soil. If you are interested in the pH of your soil, do a soil test before you begin. We sell pH kits. and the test is very simple to do. Your soil is an entire complex ecosystem below ground, with possible variability in the pH within only a few feet. So check random areas of your new flowerbed to obtain a complete "pH picture" of the soil. If your soil is highly acidic (below 6.0) or highly alkaline (above 7.0), you may need to consult with us about pH adjustors to add to the garden before your planting.

Keep newly transplanted perennials watered for the first few weeks. Water deeply to saturate the entire root ball and establish good contact between the roots and the surrounding soil. It is during this time period that you might not see much above-ground growth. Know why? Because the roots of the new plantings are busy getting established. This is a good thing. No need to fertilize beyond that starter fertilizer--not yet, anyway!

Once your new plants are carefully planted: Mulch, Mulch, Mulch. That's right, put a 2-3 inch layer of garden mulch, small bark or forest products, cocoa mulch or shredded leaves around them. This will blanket the soil and keep the newly planted roots warm, as well as help with moisture maintenance and keep weeds to a minimum.

As your new perennial flowerbed begins to grow and bloom, bloom and grow, then you will know it is a good time to feed with with Dr. Earth Organic 6 Flower Garden Fertilizer. This will help to promote good plant health and increased blooms.

Sick plants attract bugs like a magnet. If your plants look stressed during the growing season, or if you see disease or insect damage, feed your plants with a quick-release organic fertilizer (try a blend of seaweed and fish emulsion). If this doesn't help, begin again with a new plant. Your garden will thank you!

Perennials last for a number of seasons, but they don't last forever. Some may seem to want to last forever, but they have lost their beauty. If a plant performs poorly, try moving it to a different location. If it still is not happy, send it to the compost pile! Since there are so many outstanding perennial plants to choose from, you should not make do with poor performers.

When designing a perennial garden, think about how you will be able to access your plants to weed, deadhead, or divide them. Perhaps your bed is narrow (up to 3 feet), in which case, you can reach from the edge of the garden without a problem for these chores. If your garden is wider than this, plan a way to access your plants without trampling them and compacting your soil around the plants. This may mean a stepping stone path through the middle, or at least to those unreachable plants. Created at the back of a border, a walkway will be hidden during the growing season, but will make the bed accessible.

And don't forget to mulch.

Long ago and far away, the hills and flatlands of Southern California used to be covered with orange groves. One can almost hear Peter, Paul and Mary singing, “Where have all the orange groves gone? Long time passing. Where have all the orange groves gone? Long time ago. Where have all the orange groves gone? Gone to housing, every one. "

Ah, but you can have your very own “citrus grove,” right in your yard. Citrus trees are ornamentally beautiful, have fragrant blooms, are evergreen and boast colorful fruits all year long. Who could ask for more? Walk out into your yard and pluck an orange, lime, lemon, grapefruit, kumquat or your citrus of choice - fresh and delicious.

Now, we don’t mean to imply you should add rows and rows of citrus trees. But you can select your favorite citrus trees and incorporate them into your landscape, front or back yard. Also, dwarf citrus grow great in containers. Include them in that container-designed area of your patio or deck. If you plan to plant a citrus tree in a container, use cactus mix as the planting soil. This will give your citrus tree the best drainage.

We have numerous varieties of citrus trees from which to make your selection. Many of these are available in either standard or dwarf.

Citrus trees love full sun and well-drained soil. They prefer sandy soils. If you have more clay-like soil, amend heavily or plant the tree on a slight mound to keep the roots elevated for good drainage. And don’t forget to mulch, mulch, mulch! Citrus trees like moist soil, but not saturated soil. If you have clay soil, take care not to over-water in the root areas of your citrus. It is also best not to under-plant these trees at all, especially with grass that needs lots of water.

Fertilizing is important for citrus. They are heavy feeders and need lots of nitrogen. That should make sense when you observe their continuous foliage-growing, flowering and fruiting cycle. They also need other minerals such as iron, manganese and zinc. Yellowing leaves with dark veins are a sign of chlorosis from iron deficiency. Yellow mottling or blotching on leaves can be characteristic of manganese and/or zinc deficiency. If you are uncertain of what is happening with your citrus, bring us a leaf or two and we’ll direct you to the correct fertilizer.

Unhealthy citrus can get pests such as aphids, mites, scale, mealybugs, sooty mold and/or whitefly. Remember that you cannot use most synthetic chemical treatments on an edible plant. Keep your citrus healthy with regular organic fertilizing, a full sun location, mulch, and regular water but not saturation. It also helps to mulch with worm castings from time to time.

If you do get one of or a combination of the above pests, the first type of treatment is spraying with water. You can knock off all of the listed insect pests with a hard blast of water. And you can clean foliage coated with black sooty mold with water and finger scrubbing.

If you are growing your citrus in a container, all of the above instructions are for you, too. However, you may need to water more often, because containers tend to dry out.

Citrus are excellent landscape plants that add to your gardens an attractive form, glossy green foliage, perfume fragrance, colorful fruits and above all, delectable eating! Come in to see us. We’ll meet you in the citrus grove!