This was a strange winter for some of us in our gardens. For people accustomed to frost, this article won't have anything new. But there are a great number of us in zones that may get a frost or two from time to time, but not on an almost daily basis.

Frost damage to plants is much like desiccation from lack of water. We described this in our previous article on frost. Freezing temperatures severely dehydrate plant tissues. Water in the plant tissue freezes and expands the plant's cells, causing irreparable damage. It is only when the temperature rises that the damage to your plant becomes apparent. A 'burned' appearance may show at the top of the plant on the highest leaves (or the leaves most exposed to the freezing temperature), working its way down the stem and on through to the lower leaves. This 'burn' did not manifest itself immediately, but certainly did within a day or so.

Ok, soon we will be past the possibility of any more frosty mornings. You have a number of plants in your garden that looked like they have died - or should have. What do you do to help your poor, pathetic-looking plants? What we first would recommend is that you WATCH them. As our temperatures warm, look to see if new leaf buds are emerging. In all likelihood, there will be new growth. This is why: although there may be soft-tissue (foliage) damage to your plants, the soil probably never froze, and the roots are just fine. Keep that in mind; the plant will begin to tell itself "Ouch - I've lost my foliage cover and food-producing tissues. I'd better start growing again!" Such plants may simply re-foliate and will look beautiful again in the spring.

There may be other plants in your garden with additional damage into the branches, beyond just the foliage. These plants will send messages from the leaf bud areas in the non-damaged regions of the branches to begin growing new foliage. It is when this growth begins that you will breathe a sigh of relief AND only then will the plant tell you what to do next. Right. When you begin to see new foliage and perhaps even new small branching, the plant is telling you, "Please cut my frost-ruined branch back to just in front of the new growth." And that is exactly how you will prune.

Some of your plants may take a while to rebound from all of this damage. Watch the foliage for rotting. If you are convinced that the possibility of frost is in the past, then consider removing the dead foliage from the branches to prevent further unhealthy damage to your plants from the rotting foliage. Wait for new leaves or branching before pruning back damaged branches from these plants.

As you begin to see the new spring growth, remember to feed all your plants with Dr. Earth Organic 7 All Purpose Fertilizer. Their first order of business this year will be to grow new foliage. Flowering, if it's a flowering plant, will come later.

Now there may be some plants that just took too hard a hit with the frost and cannot recover, or cannot recover in an aesthetic manner. Thank those plants for their ongoing worthiness in your garden. Then come to the garden center and find a new member for your garden. If you need help, we're here for you to offer sympathy, support, and future plant selection suggestions.

Planting
The 2007 roses are here. This month they will begin that first bloom. And all of you rose lovers know what that first bloom is: blossoms with wonderful color and fragrance! For those of you who were waiting to select a new rose shrub until you could see the actual flower, this will be the month to stop by the garden center and stroll through the roses!

Did you know that azaleas and camellias are best planted while blooming? They began their blooming in February, so March is right in the middle of their blooming season. DON'T feed your camellias until they have completed their blooming! If you do, they will drop all remaining buds and you will be so very unhappy, thinking that you killed your shrub. Fertilize to reward the plant AFTER the blooming ends.

Spring color plants are arriving daily! Color up your gardens with perennials and annuals. Look for perennials such as campanula, columbine, coral bells, delphinium, foxglove (digitalis), diascia, penstemon, poppies, salvia, yarrow and so much more. Great annuals to pick from include coleus, dianthus, impatiens, linaria, lobelia, marigolds, pansies, petunias, salvias, verbena and violas.

Ladies and gentlemen: Start your vegetable gardens! There is still time to plant cabbages, broccoli, brussels sprouts, and lettuce. It is a little bit early but we have just brought in corn, eggplant & tomatoes. This is also a good time not only to prune back herbs from last year, but also add in new plants such as basil, chives, parsley, rosemary, sage, and thyme.

Maintenance Duties
Fertilize your lawns with Gro-Power Hi Nitrogen Fertilizer.

Fertilize your roses with Dr. Earth Organic 3 Rose & Flower Fertilizer.

Snails will be out to munch on tender, new growth. Time to start putting out Master Nursery Mini Snail Pellets.

Now is the time to divide perennials such as agapanthus, callas, daylilies, rudbeckia, and daisies. Those with fuchsias can cut them back two-thirds toward the main branches. Remember to leave 2-5 leaf bud/scars for new growth.

You can begin pruning your ornamental shrubs (pittosporum, boxwood, etc.) for hedges. Wait to prune spring flowering shrubs and trees until their blooming is over.

Now is the time to apply Master Nursery Pre-Emergent Lawn Food and Master Pro Weed Control Lawn Fertilizer on all of your garden beds. Following the application of the pre-emergent, re-mulching will be important.

Mulch, Mulch, and Mulch More!
We often tell you to mulch. This does not mean we want you to mound the mulch up 5 feet. It means you should continue to replenish your mulch and maintain a 2-4 inch blanket over your soil. So when you hear us singing the 'mulch' song, you'll know just what we mean!

Don't forget to take advantage of our bumpercrop special!
Buy 3 get 1 free!