Ours are just in - and just starting into bloom! Very long blooming season for this particular hydrangea — from now, through the whole summer, and into September.

Deep green foliage is lush and mildew resistant. An excellent cold-hardy addition to dappled shade under tree canopies. Clear blue mop-head blooms that will turn pink in alkaline soils, and are 8 inches in diameter. To maintain blue colored flowers, add Master Nursery Hydra Blue starting in the fall until 1 month before the the last bloom, usually around the end of July. Otherwise color will naturally change to pink, due to the alkalinity in our soils. Deadhead promptly for repeat bloom.

by Tamara Galbraith

I've heard it a million times: "I can't grow lavender."

The problem most gardeners have is drainage. Growing lavender gives new meaning to the oft-heard phrase "needs well-drained soil." With lavender, they ain't kiddin'.

Given that fact, only young, small lavender plants do well in a container. In general, lavender will do best in the ground, as long as the soil is — you guessed it — well draining. My personal trick is three-fold:

• Add lots of expanded shale (or a similar pebble-like additive) and compost like Master Nursery Bumper Crop to the planting hole.
• Mound the soil up and plant the lavender on a small hill.
• Mulch around the base of the plant with small rocks.

All of these steps ensure that the all-important excellent drainage requirements are met. Once established, lavender plants are quite drought tolerant and relatively care-free.

Ok, so now that you're an expert at growing lavender...what do you do with it? Well, we all know the fragrance of most lavender cultivars is to die for; it's easy to collect and dry the spent flowers and make your own sachets. The fragrance of lavender is believed to relieve headaches, so try sprinkling some of the flowers in your next hot bath.

Lavender is also an essential part of Herbes de Provence, a spice/herb mixture used for everything from salads to meat rubs. And if you find lavender-flavored honey for sale - buy it. Believe me, you'll never want to put anything else on an English muffin again.

Your garden is now ripe for a devastating invasion of aphids, slugs and snails. Before we devise our battle plan to rid your garden of these pests, let's look at the inter-relationships in your backyard!

Aphids are to ants what cows are to humans. Ants actually protect and herd aphids for the honeydew nectar they secrete. Ants use their antennae to stroke the aphids, thereby activating the secretion cycle. Thusly, ant control should be part of the preventative cycle regarding aphid infestation. Get rid of the ants and it is much easier to get rid of their herds! We recommend Terro Ant Bait.

Aphids can be brought under control culturally if the infestation is moderate. Often a thorough hosing of the afflicted plants will wash aphids away.

Biological controls include lady bugs and praying mantis colonies. Organic solutions include insecticidal soaps or pyrethrums. Another combination ingredient might be a 3-1 fertilizer, fungus control and systemic insecticide.

Should you have a severe infestation, a radical control would be malathion. Come on in and we'll show you the options that best suit your needs.

Snails and slugs also become more active as the weather warms. In most cases, snails are easily controlled with bait products, such as Metro's That's It, Master Nursery Pest Fighter Slug & Snail Mini Pellets or Monterey Sluggo (safe to use around pets). For the more exotic approach, there is a biological control for the common brown snail by utilizing a distant cousin, the Decollate snail. The Decollate snail species is carnivorous and will feast on the common brown snail. Should they run out of the snail entrée, they become herbaceous and eat trimming and waste.

In summary, now is the time to commence your control programs. Come on in and we'll assist in every way!

Slugs and Snails

Snails and their shell-less brethren, slugs, are one of the most frustrating and destructive garden pests. Hiding during the day and feeding mostly at night, they can consume almost anything with fruit, flowers or foliage. Often, all you see in their wake, other than damaged plants, is the shiny slime trail they leave behind.

Slugs and snails are most active in cool, moist weather, but they can be a problem almost any time. Although hand-picking (or squashing with your foot) in the early morning or at night can reduce numbers, using poisonous baits has been the most common control measure. The problem is that snail and slug baits can also be toxic to pets and wildlife. Now there is a more critter-friendly solution.

Most commom snail and slug products are very effective, but can be harmful to your pet. Sluggo utilizes a unique blend of iron phosphate, originating from soil, and snail and slug bait additives. Any leftover bait will degrade and become part of the soil. It is highly effective against snails and slugs, but also can be used around pets and wildlife. The dual action bait attracts and kills slugs and snails, remains effective after rain and is ideal for use around lawns, vegetables and other garden areas. Sluggo comes in an easy-to-use shaker applicator which covers up to 1500 square feet.