Many homeowners purchase a beautiful Japanese maple in spring only to bring in burnt and damaged leaves in summer, worried that their investment is about to part ways with their yard. The tree isn't dying - it's just suffering from heat stress. A common misconception is that Japanese maples can't tolerate a full sun location. But this is not true. All Japanese maples can adapt to a full sun location and, in fact, tend to color up better when they are in one. What most people experience is summer heat stress due to infrequent (or lack of) water when the tree needs it, especially during a heat wave.

Most Japanese maples will burn a little on the leaf tips in the first year while acclimating to a sunny location. But after that, they should not experience more stress. The reason maple leaves turn brown on the edges in summer is that the tree is unable to replenish the moisture the foliage loses through natural transpiration. As moisture leaves a plant, the tree draws moisture up from the ground to keep the cells in the leaves healthy and robust. If the tree has no moisture to draw from, the cells burst and die, which leads to the burning one sees on the leaf edges.

This condition can also be caused by salt burn from the use or overuse of strong chemical fertilizers containing high amounts of nitrogen, especially ammoniacal nitrogen. Even if the soil is moist around the trees, the tree can burn because the moist soil actually activates the fertilizer and the tree cannot control the amount of fertilizer it draws up.

What Japanese maples do need is a consistently moist, well-drained environment and, preferably, the use of an organic fertilizer. The term "well-drained" is key because regular watering in a poorly drained area will lead to root-rot and, ultimately, death. So never plant a Japanese maple in a low spot or next to a downspout or gutter. The amount of watering it takes to maintain a consistently moist condition will vary with soil type and location but on average Japanese maples should be checked for watering every 2-3 days. Organic fertilizers such as Gardner & Bloome® Natural & Organic Rhododendron, Azalea & Camellia Fertilizer for acid & shade loving plantss are preferable because they are not activated by moisture but rather soil temperature and contain soil microbes and other beneficial organisms.

Another way to cut down on heat stress and leaf damage is to spray the tree with an anti-transpirant that coats the leaves to hold in moisture and reduce stress caused by temperature extremes and a dry environment. We recommend Wilt Stop Plant Protector.

By Tamara Galbraith

It's a great time of year to clean out the garage, isn't it? Phase 1 of that daunting project has been completed at my house. Next up? Reviewing what organic gardening products I'll need to replace before the growing season begins.

It's important to do this each year, as some products can become less effective over time, while others may do the opposite. Some liquid pesticides and fertilizers can develop gas as they deteriorate, making opening and handling containers hazardous.

Powdered products (like fertilizers and insectides) can usually be stored indefinitely if kept away from moisture, and out of both the sun and extreme temperatures. Liquid fertilizers have a shelf life of approximately 1-2 years, if stored under the same cool conditions. Oil- and soap-based insecticides generally last 1-2 years as well.

Bacteria-based products such Bts (bacillus thuringiensis) and other biological products may have shorter shelf lives. In fact, beneficial nematodes should be used immediately after purchase, if possible. Two days' storage in the refrigerator is about the maximum if you can't apply them immediately.

Of course, check the container of all of your products for an expiration date, and adhere to it if there is one. If there isn't, feel free to contact the manufacturer for advice if you're not sure whether to keep it or toss it.

When disposing of any gardening chemical — either organic or synthetic — it is important that you do so properly. Under no circumstances should you pour products down the drain or sewer. Many cities now have Environmental Waste Chemical Pick-up services. Call your County Extension for direction if you're not sure what to do.

Well, actually it's both. Cilantro refers to the leaves of the plant, and coriander references the seeds. Also known as Chinese parsley, this herb is indeed a member of the parsley family. This gentle little herb with lacy, fern-like leaves is a social creature, requiring other plants growing around it to aid in holding it up on its spindly stems that can reach 2+ feet in height. Excellent companion plants are caraway, anise and dill.

An annual, it is best first planted in cool weather, in a moderately rich, slightly alkaline, well-drained soil; this native of Asia and the Mediterranean regions prefers full to partial sun. In ideal conditions, cilantro (leaves) will last about 8 to 10 weeks before flowering. To ensure such conditions (this herb is not a friend of weeds), mulch to keep the roots cool and weed-free.

Once the herb flowers, producing a delicate white-to-lavender display, seeds will form; harvest them immediately when the leaves and flowers turn brown, but before the seeds disperse. To do this, cut the entire plant and hang it to dry upside down in paper bags. Occasionally shake the bags to thresh the seeds, but be certain that they have fully dried; coriander seeds can be bitter if only partially dry.

Once you have harvested the dried seeds, roast them in a frying pan over low to medium heat, frequently shaking the pan. Cool, then crush with a mortar and pestle just before use; this will release the flavor--and the trademark lemon-scented odor. The wise herb gardener will retain some of the seeds prior to drying for replanting every few weeks to guarantee a continuous supply.

When picking fresh cilantro, choose the small, young leaves (which are the tastiest) and cut with the stems on. Rinse well, and place the bunch, stem ends down, in a small glass of water as if you were displaying flowers. Cover with a plastic bag, securing with a rubber band, and refrigerate. Change the water daily, and your cilantro will last much longer.

The citrusy tang of cilantro has become a popular addition to Mexican cuisine, while Chinese, Thai, and Indonesian cuisines use both cilantro and coriander. Thai curries incorporate the chopped leaves of cilantro, while Indian curry powders owe their aromatic quality to ground coriander.

Coriander has been found in Egyptian tombs dating back 3,000 years. The ancient Hebrews used cilantro root as the maror, or bitter herb, during the symbolic Passover Seder meal. The Roman conquests of Europe and Asia introduced the use of cilantro as an aphrodisiac in China during the Han dynasty (207 BC – 200 AD); such usage is mentioned in The Tales of the Arabian Nights. But most notably, the visions of sugar plums which danced in children's heads on the night before Christmas, originally referred to sugar-coated coriander.

The seeds, when chewed, freshen one's breath; the essential oil is considered an aid in improving memory; and because of cilantro's powerful scent, it has a reputation for attracting beneficial insects and deterring harmful ones.

Whether you call it cilantro or coriander, the distinctive characteristics of this tiny miracle herb make it a must-have for any herb garden.

By Tamara Galbraith

Not long after moving into our current house in the fall of 2004, I was presented with a large potted plant by the wonderful woman who lives behind us. "I just divided mine," she explained, "and I don't have any room for this one. I'm not really sure what it is, but when it blooms, it's beautiful!"

I too was clueless about the plant's origins. But within a few weeks, a flower stalk emerged among the big strap-like leaves, and a spray of gorgeous, trumpet-shaped orange flowers burst forth...in the middle of winter, no less.

After some research, I finally identified the plant. Eureka! Or...make that: Clivia!

Clivia belongs to the same family as amaryllis, with some variations in height within the species. The primary flower color is orange, but there is also a yellow-flowered cultivar that is somewhat hard to find. Also on the rare and expensive side, there is a new breed of clivia on the market with variegated, striped foliage, which comes in both yellow- and orange-flowering forms. Good luck finding those.

Clivias are large, heavy plants and like to remain in the same pot for a long time. A mature plant can get 2-3 feet tall and almost as wide. Like many winter-flowering plants, clivia should be given a month of cool night temperatures in autumn, followed by a six-to-eight-week rest period with very little water. Even when not in bloom, the big sword-shaped leaves make for an attractive foliage plant, though.

Be patient with a young clivia, as it apparently takes a few years for them to bloom...making me especially grateful to my neighbor friend for doing the hard part for me! They are a fabulous alternative to the usual live plants available for gift-giving this time of year.