The earliest Mother's Day celebrations we know of were ancient Greek spring celebrations in honor of Rhea, the mother of the gods; the ancient Romans also had another holiday, Matronalia, that was dedicated to Juno. But those were in honor of one particular mother. England's "Mothering Sunday," begun in the 1600's, is closer to what we think of as "Mother's Day." Celebrated on the fourth Sunday of Lent, "Mothering Sunday" honored the mothers of England.

In 1907, Anna Jarvis started a drive to establish a national Mother's Day. In 1907 she passed out 500 white carnations at her mother's church in West Virginia--one for each mother in the congregation. In 1908, her mother's church held the first Mother's Day service, on May 10th (the second Sunday in May). That same day a special service was held at the Wanamaker Auditorium in Philadelphia, where Anna was from, which could seat no more than a third of the 15,000 people who showed up.

By 1909, churches in 46 states, Canada and Mexico were holding Mother's Day services. In the meantime, Ms. Jarvis had quit her job to campaign full time. She managed to get the World's Sunday School Association to help; they were a big factor in convincing legislators to support the idea. In 1912, West Virginia was the first state to designate an official Mother's Day. By 1914, the campaign had convinced Congress, which passed a joint resolution. President Woodrow Wilson signed the resolution, establishing an official national Mother's Day on the second Sunday in May.

Many countries of the world now have their own Mother's Day at different times of the year, but Australia, Belgium, Canada, Denmark, Finland, Italy, Japan, and Turkey join the US in celebrating Mother's Day on the second Sunday of May. Britain still celebrates Mothering Day on the fourth Sunday of Lent--but they now call it Mother's Day. By any name, and at any date, it's a special day to honor a special person.

Having trouble thinking of a gift? Why not do something a little different for Mother's Day? Instead of giving her a bouquet of roses, plant her a rose garden! If she already has a rose garden--add to it! If she lives in an apartment, consider a potted rose plant--many roses will do quite well in containers (ask us for suggestions).

Why give one bouquet that will soon fade away, when you can give years of pleasure from living roses instead?

Click to print this article.

Just a note here: What most gardeners know as a "geranium" is probably a plant of the genus pelargonium and not the genus geranium (more commonly known as cranesbills). We are using the term 'geranium' here in deference to the common usage.

There are four main types of garden geraniums: zonal geraniums, Martha Washington geraniums, the scented-leaf geraniums, and ivy geraniums.

Zonal geraniums (pelargonium hortorum):
The most popular garden geranium, getting their name from the "zoned" leaf markings. They have clusters of individual flowers held on long stems above the foliage. There are many cultivars, with wide range of brilliant flower color and attractive leaves. Most will grow about 3 ft. tall.

Martha Washington geraniums (pelargonium domesticum):
The group known as the 'orchid of geraniums.' Flowers are orchid-like blooms; colors may be white, pink, red, purple, or mixed colors. These geraniums require cool (50 to 60°F) night temperatures in order to bloom. They may stop flowering in the heat of the summer but will resume once the weather cools in the fall.

Scented-leaf geraniums (pelargonium - various species and hybrids):
Grown for their beautifully scented foliage. They vary in shape, size, flower color and growth habit. Foliage fragrances include rose, chocolate, mint, apple, lemon, lime, ginger and nutmeg.

Ivy geraniums (pelargonium peltatum):
Named for the ivy-shaped foliage and trailing growth habit; the flower colors are more pastel than zonals. They are ideal for hanging baskets, and may also be used in window boxes, or as ground covers in a protected location. They like moderate temperatures. If the temperatures are between 65 and 80 degrees F, put them in full sun. When the temperature is higher than that, move them to an area with partial sun.

For planting geraniums in flower beds, work in a starter fertilizer like Gardener & Bloome Starter Fertilizer before planting. In mid-summer fertilize again with an all-purpose fertilizer such as Gardener & Bloome Bud & Bloom Fertilizer.  Space plants 10 to 12 inches apart. Water well after planting, but don't overwater.

For planting in containers, use Master Nursery Gold Medal Plus Potting Soil.  Fertilize once a month with Gardener & Bloome Bud & Bloom Fertilizer. Water thoroughly when the soil is dry to the touch (so water comes through the drainage holes).

Geraniums of all sorts are a great addition to your home and garden. Try a few this year for your window boxes, hanging baskets, and flowerbeds.

Although it takes most clematis plants a few years to become established, they are fairly easy to care for once they mature, providing masses of blooms throughout much of the growing season. They have one shared requirement--that is their need for support. They can be attached to fences, trellises, arbors, gazebos, garden objects or other plants such as climbing roses or tall shrubs with similar needs.

Clematis prefer to have their feet in the shade and their heads in the sun for at least 5-6 hours per day. They prefer rich, fast-draining soil amended and their roots protected by a layer of mulch. It's important to water clematis regularly, especially in hot weather. Most varieties will continue to produce blooms repeatedly provided they are fed every 4-6 weeks during the growing season and decorative seed heads are removed after each bloom cycle.

We have a great selection of clematis just waiting to find a new home in your garden. We invite you to visit us and see how spectacular and versatile this wonderful plant really is. It truly is the Queen of Vines.

Aphids come in a number of sizes and colors, winged and non-winged. All are pesky little insects to gardeners. Why are they considered a pest? Aphids are "suckers"--they suck juices from the plant leaves and stems. Some can also transmit plant viruses via that sucking mouth-piece.

What else do we know about aphids? Well, they certainly are not Speedy Gonzales! They are slow-moving, soft-bodied insects that suck juices from our plants, and excrete a clear sugary liquid that we call "honeydew." Frequently, in the presence of an aphid-infected plant, you will notice a stream of ants working busily around the aphids. They are protecting the aphids because these ants want access to the honeydew.

Also, it is upon honeydew that sooty mold can grow and leave a black, sooty deposit on the foliage of the infected plant. Many customers have mentioned that they thought this deposit was pollution or dirt. It's not pollution or dirt--it's a fungal mold.

Aphids have many natural enemies in our gardens. Adult and larval forms of ladybugs and lacewings, syrphid flies, soldier beetles and parasitoid wasps (these guys are tiny, not your average wasp) all love to eat aphids. A good approach to aphid management begins with maintaining a healthy garden and encouraging these beneficial insects to make your garden their home. This is done through plant diversity and health.

Another very easy method of aphid removal is simply using water to knock them off the infected plant. If the aphid is in the process of probing/sucking a juicy stem when you knock it off--and it probably is doing just that--the mouthpiece will be broken and the aphid will no longer be able to eat. See what a simple pest control water can be--and a safe method at that?

We carry spray oils and other insecticides that can be used for more severe infestations--ask us which is best for your needs.

An artichoke (Cynara scolymus or C. cardunculus) is a giant thistle which becomes a beautiful flower. Well, it could become a beautiful flower--if we didn't pick it as a flower bud and eat it as a vegetable.

Artichokes, native to the Mediterranean region, were later introduced to Southern Europe and Asia. The artichoke has dramatic and sculptured gray green foliage that is very attractive in your vegetable garden. In fact, this vegetable is beautiful in your ornamental garden, too!

An artichoke's overall form is almost like a fountain and needs up to 4 feet of space for full growth. It likes full sun, cooler temperatures and moist soil. If you live in a very hot zone, plant it in the shade. Mulch under the plant to help maintain the moisture that it loves.

At planting time, plant dormant roots or young plants with the root shoots just above the soil level and then mulch. Water at least once a week, keeping the root system moist.

Aphids, snails, slugs, and earwigs tend to be the artichoke “pest of the day.” Blast the aphids and earwigs off with water. We recommend Monterey Sluggo Plus for the snails and slugs.

The best time to harvest your artichokes is once the edible flower buds are 2-4 inches in diameter. Cut off the bud, including 1.5 inches of stem with the bud. At the end of the season, cut back the old bearing stems/foliage to near ground level and mulch around the remaining plant. Don't forget to give your artichokes a well-balanced fertilizer such as Gardner & Bloom Organic OMRI Listed All Purpose Fertilizer.

Click to print this article.

What’s the best way to over-seed a lawn?

Answer:
That depends on whether it is the entire lawn or just a bare spot. The best time to over-seed is early spring and early fall.

For bare spots, make sure to remove any old dead growth that still exists. Then scratch the soil surface at least 1-2 inches deep and level off. Apply your seed and cover with 1/4 inch of top dressing, such as Kellogg Topper. Make sure to keep the area moist at all times until the seed has germinated and rooted. You should be able to mow the spot (on a high level setting) three weeks after the seed germinates and is visible.

Before over-seeding an entire lawn, mow your lawn to half its normal height. We recommend dethatching your lawn and removing all thatch debris before applying new seed. Then over-seed at the recommended over-seeding rate on the package of your lawn seed.

Cover the entire lawn with a 1/4 inch layer of the same top dressing mentioned above. Switch your watering cycle to at least twice daily (short cycles) the first two weeks, once per day the second week, every second day the third week and then back to your normal watering cycle from then on.

Try not to mow for at least two weeks after applying seed. Then do so at a higher than normal level setting until the new grass is well established.

Click to print this article.