Eating great-tasting fresh greens out of the garden is one of the special pleasures one gets from growing one's own vegetables. But you don't need an acre plot of land to do it in--even a small area will work just fine. With just a little planning and ingenuity, you can grow salad greens just about anywhere.

All you need is a large planter box, or several smaller ones, if you plan on moving plants in and out. Put in some of our great potting soil (we recommend Master Nursery Gold Medal Plus Potting Soil) and you're in business. If you don't like to bend over, add legs to the sides of the box, or place it on a table--and you can have a raised planter at just the right height. You can grow from seed or transplant seedlings, whichever you prefer.

Salad greens perform their very best during the cooler seasons. You can even make your planter look colorful by combining different varieties of lettuce, spinach and field greens in the same box. Make sure to feed your greens some organic plant food like Gardner & Bloome Tomato, Vegetable & Herb Fertilizer on a monthly basis to help bring out the best flavor.

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Turn to ‘M’ in Trees and Shrubs (an illustrated a-z of 8500 plants) and before any other listing you will see a two-page full color enlarged photograph of one gorgeous, creamy white Southern Magnolia flower cupped gently and safely above thick dark green glossy foliage. Beholding this picture says it all for the Magnolia and demonstrates how this one in particular boldly represents the genus.

There are many, many species and cultivars of Magnolia (hundreds). This tree (and sometimes shrub) originated both in North America and also throughout Asia. Having said that, it is obvious that there will be a species or cultivar available for your climate zone. There are both deciduous species – lose their foliage for a short time during the dormant season - and evergreen species, which as the word implies, never lose their foliage.

The magnolia genus is an ancient one. We admire the beauty of its flower but this same flower carries with it an interesting history. Its flowers are considered to be “primitive” in the flowering plant world (angiosperms). Apparently because it evolved long, long before bees, the flowers evolved to be pollinated by beetles. To ensure pollination, the flower structure remained simple, not complex. In the center of whorled, large petals stand numerous tall pollen coated anthers. Any nectar-seeking insect, such as the early beetles, accomplished the necessary pollination for this genus.

The Southern Magnolia, which is evergreen and highly fragrant, bears this voluptuous flower. The Southern Magnolia probably exemplifies the best of the evergreen magnolias. This tree is also one of the largest growing of the magnolias, growing broadly to 80 feet or more. Lucky for those of us with smaller gardens, there is a dwarf variety called 'Little Gem' that is considerably smaller and even can be espaliered on a fence or wall.

There are also deciduous species of magnolia, which are quite well represented. The Saucer Magnolia or Tulip Magnolia (M. soulangeana) comes to mind. The flowers are borne on the branches in spring first, before the foliage. There are several cultivars available offering a variety of flower colors from white to pink-purple petals to rosy pink. Another favorite among the deciduous magnolias is the Star Magnolia. Clusters of fragrant white star-shaped flowers will abundantly bloom before the foliage reemerges each spring.

Fall or spring are both good times for planting a magnolia. Remember to consider the ultimate size of the variety that you select when deciding where to place this newcomer in your garden. Magnolias need full sun. If placed into too much shade, the tree may grow to be too leggy, while lack of sun might limit the degree of flowering. Dig a hole at least twice the size of the ball of the new tree, and mix your native soil at least 70-30 with planting mix. Water regularly, but do not over-water. Once established, the water can be reduced. In the spring, feed with , which is an excellent general-purpose fertilizer.

No garden should be without this wonderful tree. Standing alone, boldly displaying its flowers or tucked in with the camellia, azalea, Chinese fringe (Loropetalum), and rhododendrons, the Magnificent Magnolia is a must-have for everyone!

To some of us, the pansy/viola is a happy, smiling face reminding us of a gardener friend from long ago. The first sign of that special flower brings a smile to our face and warmth to our heart. After all, this flower is known as the "pixie" of the plant world. How perfect is that to have in your winter/spring gardens!

Botanically speaking, members of the genus Viola, which includes the pansy, viola and violets, are perennials. We just happen to treat them as annuals. The varieties that we grow are happiest in cool weather. Planting them now ensures wonderful color in your spring gardens.

There are many different cultivars of pansies and violas offering a wide range of colors and flower sizes: colors from white, yellow, apricot, violet, blue-purples, dusty rose and combinations of all of these colors! The flower sizes range from 1-4 inches.

Pansies are best in sun to light shade. If you plant them in deep shade, they will grow, but not reward you with as many flowers. Plant them toward the front of your flower beds, along with your shrubs and other flowering bedding plants. You may not want to put them too close to the edge if your planter is next to your grass--scary weed whackers may chop off their heads! These plants love to trail and would also be beautiful in raised beds, planters and window boxes.

Here are a few planting and care tips:

Amend the soil with Master Nursery Bumper Crop Premium Planting Mix before planting to provide good drainage around the roots. Use a good potting soil--not garden soil--if you have them in planters.

Space them about 6" apart.

Water deeply, but be careful to not overwater. Don't leave them in soggy soil.

Mulching around the pansies with 2 inches of organic material will help conserve moisture, and reduce weed growth.

Pansies are mostly free of diseases and pests, but if you've had a problem in an area of your garden with pansies, switch and grow them in another area for a year or so.

And here is your number one rule: start your morning with a stroll into your garden to start your day with smiling faces. Oh sure, you can take your cup of coffee or tea along with you, too.

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Strawberries are an excellent crop for home gardeners. Like most fruits and vegetables, they taste much better if homegrown and picked when just ripe.

You can plant strawberries three ways: in the ground, in strawberry pots, or in hanging baskets. Plant certain varieties now and you can be enjoying your fresh strawberries into autumn.

Strawberry Types:

• June-bearing strawberries produce a large, concentrated crop in late spring. You'll get more berries per season from June-bearing strawberries, but the entire crop will ripen over a short period.
• Ever-bearing strawberries produce one crop in spring and another in fall.

We recommend planting more than one type, so you'll get a better spread in your harvest.

Growing Strawberries:
Strawberries need full sun to produce the best crop - give them at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day. More sunlight will give you more, and better quality, berries.

Strawberries do best in a sandy loam with high humus content. They don't like either drought or wet feet (they will suffer root-rot in poorly-draining soil).

Water when the top inch of soil dries out - this may be daily in hot weather.

Planting Depth:
Try to plant strawberries on a cloudy day or during the late afternoon. Set the strawberry plant in the soil so that the soil is just covering the tops of the roots. Do not cover the crown. After a month or so, the plants will begin producing runners and new plants. Feed monthly with a good organic liquid fertilizer.

In a Strawberry Pot or Basket:
We recommend using the larger pots and baskets, as the smaller ones dry out too quickly. Use an organic potting mix that provides nutrients, or fortify the potting mix with slow-release fertilizer.

In the Ground:
Strawberries don't like either drought or wet feet. We recommend amending with if your site doesn't drain well (or drains too quickly).

Beds should be placed beyond the root zone of large trees so the tree won't compete with the strawberries for nutrients and water. Choose a location that will be easy to water during dry spells.

The site selected should be free from weeds, grubs and soil-borne diseases. Strawberries are susceptible to verticillium wilt, and should not be planted where tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and potatoes have grown in the past three years, since these vegetables often carry the disease. If you don't have a 'clean' area to plant them, we recommend using strawberry pots or baskets.

Plant strawberries in the spring, as soon as the ground is workable. Don't work the soil if it's soggy. Wait a few days until it dries.

How can I tell if a plant is fully rooted?

Answer:

Stand back, look your plant straight in the eye, and ask it! No beating around the bush (forgive the pun); simply ask it in a straightforward manner.

No, seriously, most plants take at least 3-4 months--sometimes a complete growing season in colder climates--to become rooted and established.

If you pull up gently on an established plant, there generally will be no "give." New growth on the plant tips is another sign that your plant is safely on its way.

Incorporating a starter fertilizer into the backfill of the hole and then watering in with a rooting hormone will give your new plants an added boost to help them set down good, solid roots in their new environment.

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